rose
Battle of the Moisturizers: Contestant #1 Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream
The Rose Hydrating Gel Cream from Fresh was not one of the products suggested to me by Hal 9000 The Sephora Skincare IQ, but was suggested by the kindly computer slave Sephora Lady, and I was able to pick a sample of it up in the fancy Customized Skincare Favorites Bag. Field testing and ingredient analysis for this, the first contestant in the Battle of the Moisturizers has completed, so lets begin –
Hot diggity daffodil, did this stuff smell lovely! I don’t think I have ever smelled a better moisturizer, but what do I know about smells – we’ve already discussed how LUSH’s Gorgeous smells like tortillas to me (I’ve had a cat scan, its not brain cancer). That’s the biggest thing that stuck out to me, but lemmie give you some facts:
Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream 
Cost = $42 US
Size = 1.6 fl oz
Extended cost (Cost / Size) = $26.25/oz
Estimated cost per application = $0.52
Here’s how I figured that part out: The sample I received was 0.16 fl oz and this was enough for 9 days with one application per day, that meant I was using approximately 0.02 fl oz a day. Divide that by the full size and it came out to about 80 applications, and $42 into 80 meant each application would cost me about $0.52.
And here is what the Fresh website has to say about what this product is supposed to do:
- Rosewater helps to soothe and rose flower oil and jojoba oil help to nourish.
- Porphyridium cruentum, a “smart” algae, helps to deliver optimum moisture.
- Angelica leaf extract is known to improve moisture-retention.**
- Rhodiola root extract is a protective antioxidant.**
- Hyaluronic acid helps attract and maintain moisture to restore suppleness.
- Cucumber extract helps to calm and cool the skin.
** = In Vivo/In Vitro – experiments that are performed with cells or biological molecules studied outside their normal biological context, this means the research and testing behind these claims was done in a test tube, and not necessarily seen on someone’s face. That being said, I could not find any information as to if this product is free of animal testing.
I’m going to break down each item on the list of things it’s supposed to do, then i’ll go into what I felt it did for me.
“Rosewater helps to soothe and rose flower oil and jojoba oil help to nourish.”
I’m gonna say affirmative on the Jojoba oil. I found several credible sources confirming, with documentation, that Jojoba oil enhances the skin’s ability to repair itself, stand up to UV radiation, stimulate collagen (apparently that’s a good type of goo your skin makes), and provide topical anti-inflammatory benefits. The rosewater – has a lot of antimicrobial activities and is expensive because of it’s low oil content. The rose flower oil, however? Listed as Rosa Damascena Flower Oil in their ingredients, is a fragrant, volatile oil that can be a skin irritant and sensitizer. There is no research showing this has any benefit for skin. Maybe they added it for the smell? I dunno, but it definitely didn’t seem like something that would “nourish.” I’d rather a moisturizer not irritate my skin than smell nice.
“Porphyridium cruentum, a “smart” algae, helps to deliver optimum moisture.”
“Meh, maybe not” on this one. Algae seems to be the new cool kid in cosmetics, it hangs out with those adorable Korean beauty products and the weird Clarisonic face vibrators. This particular type of algae is derived from a red algae. There is research showing that it has some fatty acids and polysaccharides that are “skin friendly, but whether or not the entire red algae extract provides benefit when applied topically on skin has not been proven.
“Angelica leaf extract is known to improve moisture-retention.**”
Angelica Keiskei Extract, as its listed in the ingredients, has been labeled as an emollient by the European Commission. According to that same source its also an Antioxidant, astringent, and has skin conditioning and skin protecting properties. Thumbs up!
“Rhodiola root extract is a protective antioxidant.**”
Rhodiola Crenulata Root Extract does just that. Also an astringent and skin-conditioning agent.
“Hyaluronic acid helps attract and maintain moisture to restore suppleness.”
Correct again. Sodium Hyaluronate enhances the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness
“Cucumber extract helps to calm and cool the skin.”
Negative, ghost rider. Claims of cucumber having anti-inflammatory or soothing properties are hokum, as there is no research to support this claim. However, there is research showing the lutein component of cucumber can have an effect on suppressing melanogenesis, or the process that leads to skin discolorations. Additional in-vitro research has shown that the constituents in cucumber can help protect skin against carcinogenic substances.
So…
It gets 4/6 of its promises confirmed. But honestly, i’m not too pleased with what else I found about its ingredients. Aside from it’s headliners, this gel cream has other run-of-the mill ingredients like some slip agents (helps you spread it around), a few other moisturizers, some elumsifiers (helps things mix), and Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Citronellol, and Geraniol provide more fragrance. Those are all fine and dandy, but who invited Tetrasodium EDTA to the party? This guy is listed as a preservative and a penetration enhancer. That means its “reversibly” damages the top surfaces of your skin so that whatever its mixed with can absorb deeper. Its allegedly made from a couple carcinogens and the internet is a garbled mess about wither its safe or not.
Its also got CI 19140 (Yellow 5) , CI 14700 (Red 4) , and CI 15985 (Yellow 6). These are artificial colors, the latter 2 being restricted as a food additive in Europe. Red 4 is currently only allowed in the US for drugs, cosmetics, and one food… maraschino cherries. Apparently those are considered a “decoration” and not a food and that’s why its allowed. Yeah, won’t ask for those in my whiskey sour anymore. If the FDA says I don’t need it in my body, then I don’t need it on my face either.
Overall
This gel cream left my face oily. Even left to absorb overnight, my t-zone was slick and shiny. I did break out with about 3 large, painful zits in places on my face I don’t usually get them while using this guy. I feel like I had a little more half-way-through-the-day makeup separation than usual. There wasn’t much “calming” going on, and for $0.52 per application, it did not do anything spectacular for my face.
I am so sorry Fresh Rose Hydrating Gel Cream, but you can sashay away. You’ve been cut. You are the weakest link. YOU’RE FIRED. We will be pursuing other applicants at this time. Its not me, its you.
Fortunately, and much to my excite, as we kick this gel cream from the running, a new mystery contestant has appeared and entered the ring! It is being shipped from the mysterious lands of Amazon and will be featured in a haul post once I piece together all the separate shipments of goodies I’m getting. ITS GONNA BE AWESOME!
How 2: "Girl" 