mositurizers
Battle of the Moisturizers: Contestant #5 Josie Maran – 100 percent Pure Argan Oil Light
“So… you’re telling me to put straight up oil on my face.”
“Yes.”
“To use oil to moisturize my already oily face.”
“Yes.”
“And there’s nothing in it but Argan oil… and its almost $30 an ounce?”
“Well, they call it ‘liquid gold.’ Its a miracle oil.”
Oh Jesus Christ, here we go…
Josie Maran 100 percent Pure Argan Oil Light
“A featherweight version of the world champion of oils, 100% Pure Argan Oil Light moisturizes deeply and absorbs quickly, leaving a semi-matte finish. Produced by Moroccan women’s co-ops, this top-grade Argan Oil is extracted from the nut of the argan tree, then first-cold-pressed to protect its healthy, hydrating properties. Wear it under makeup or instead of makeup, and fear not if your skin is oily. This must-have oil actually reduces sebum production, so it is ideal for all skin types, especially breakout-prone and sensitive..”
Cost = $48 US
Size = 1.7 fl oz
Extended cost (Cost / Size) = $28.23/oz
Estimated cost per application = *??
*I wasn’t really able to accurately estimate how much of the product I was using per application, so unfortunately I am unable to provide an estimated cost per application.
I am instantly suspicious of any product advertised alongside words like “miracle.” That is such an awful word to use in advertising, and 9.9 times out of 10 there is absolutely no miracle present in the product it describes. But is there any miracle to be found in this argan oil stuff? Lets talk about that.
Firstly, this is the “light” version of Josie Maran’s %100 Argan Oil product. Its light because instead of
containing straight up argan oil, it is made up of Natural Argan Isostearylic Esters. I am not even going to try to explain what those are. I play Destiny with a good doctor friend of mine who’s a Pharmacist and he tried to explain to me what Esters are for almost 3 hours while we killed aliens and I got nothing for you. It has to do with carbons and chemistry and how oxygen likes to hold hands with things… and that’s all I have to say about that.
According to Josie Maran, “Argan Light is lighter in texture and in color, and it absorbs even faster, and it leaves a semi-matte finish. 100% Pure Argan Oil Light is made from one ingredient: 100% Pure Argan Oil.” But what the heck is this argan oil?
So Argan oil is whats pressed from the teeny, hard-to-get kernel of the fruit that grows on the Argan tree. These trees are endemic to Algeria and Morocco where goats like to climb all over them to eat the nut things. And now you know why I drew little goats on the main picture.
The Argan tree was actually endangered up until everyone in the US decided this oil what the bees knees (which is more than we can say for the bees). Western demand has spurred a real comeback for these trees and the Moroccan government has planted thousands of them and set up co-ops for people to work the orchards.
These trees are kind of divas to work with. Firstly, they ONLY grow in very specific desert-y climates. Secondly, they don’t start to produce fruit until they’re about 15 years old. And thirdly, no one has been able to develop a mechanized process to crack the shell of the nut and extract the kernel. This part of the process still has to happen by hand and this is where the women’s co-ops come in. Dozens of women sit together singing, chatting, and cracking these nuts open by hand. Sounds like a party to me.
Many of the co-ops that produce argan oil are exclusively for women. This is awesome because in the strictly patriarchal society in Morocco, the co-ops provide these women with a “steady income, a fair wage, decent working conditions, and literacy and other education classes that give them freedom and options in a traditionally male-dominated society.” According to their website, Josie Maran Cosmetics sources all of their Argan oil from women’s co-ops in Morocco. Claims of this “miracle” oil aside, that is awesome. If this product really worked for me and I liked it, I would have no qualms paying $30/oz IF I could be sure that a fair share of that price were going to those women’s co-ops. As it were, I wasn’t able to find any info on if the argan oil is also fair trade.
So this stuff really is just an oily liquid you put straight on your face. While testing it out I couldn’t help but think of the women I’ve heard about who use straight up olive oil as a facial moisturizer. That seemed weird to me because in my mind olive oil is a food – but so is argan oil. In Morocco you traditionally dip bread in argan oil and eat that for breakfast (you know, like at Carrabba’s). I also read about a spread you put on bread made of argan oil, almonds, and honey. Its called Amlou and it sounds delicious.
Its also good for you – Researchers have concluded that daily consumption of argan oil can help prevent various cancers, cardiovascular diseases, and obesity. I need some Amlou, stat.
In Conclusion…
All the interesting facts aside – did it work?
No. It did not work for me. It could work for you, but my skin was having none of it.
I found it a little difficult to apply because I was literally using a little dropper and dripping oil onto my fingers, it was also hard to apply because my skin literally ate this stuff. It absorbed so fast I couldn’t spread it around very well. Within a day or two I started getting painful, deep-down pimples on the oilier parts of my combination face. I also noticed that 8 hours or so after applying the product, my whole face was extremely greasy.
I also read that it could be used as a leave-in conditioner for your hair and an oil for your cuticles. It made my hair way to greasy and my cuticles too dry for some reason? I don’t even know.
My guess is this may work really well for some people, but I just don’t have the proper Mediterranean genes for this to work for me. I am way to Scandinavian for this.
Sources
http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/
Is the New Josie Maran Argan Oil Light Better than the Original?
Battle of the Moisturizers: Contestant #4 Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+
I am beginning to feel as though I have flung myself haphazardly into a cosmetic maelstrom of chaos and knocked my entire equilibrium astray into a violent quasar. Toners and serums and essences and masks and exfoliators and wipes and LETS TRY ALL THE THINGS RIGHT NOW! Yeah, that was smart.
At this point, my skin is so pissed off that it would break up with me if it could. Our relationship hasn’t been this tumultuous since high school when I had to slather myself in those super acne fighting pads that were so alcoholic they gave you a contact high.
Right now all I want is to NOT look like a pizza-faced 13 year old.
I have to be honest, even at $87 for 1.5oz, LUSH’s Gorgeous is starting to look reeeeally good right about now. Things were so simple between us. After a quick spray with some Tea Tree Water, I’d put it on – my face would smell like tortillas- and that would be it. No acne, no drama, no sacrificing of a small goat. But those were the halcyon days, before the makeups and serums and weird products from other worlds. Before I bought my very own domain and decided to pretend to be a fancy beauty blogger and bribe my friends and family to read the boring shit I have to say about lip stains and Kool-aid. But I digest…
Once more into the breach, dear friends, once more.
(Srsly tho, how many beauty bloggers out there quote Richard III? I’m so fancy)
Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+
“A luxurious moisturizer that promotes smooth, healthy-looking skin.” – I sure as hell hope so Clinique, I am in no mood. If I so much as hear the word “chelator” from you…
Cost = $26 US
Size = 4.2 fl oz
Extended cost (Cost / Size) = $6.19/oz
Estimated cost per application = $0.12
- Dermatologist-developed formula combines all-day hydration with skin-strengthening ingredients to help skin look younger, longer.
- Helps strengthen skin’s own moisture barrier by 54%, so more moisture stays in.
Thank god, I only have two claims to confirm/debunk. Kind of phoning it in on this one…
Dermatologist-developed formula combines all-day hydration with skin-strengthening ingredients to help skin look younger, longer. – Hydrating and Strengthening? Sure, okay. We’ve got Glycerin which is hydroscopic (meaning it hordes water wherever it can find it) and when combined with other oils is a “cornerstone” of many moisturizers.
FUN FACT: If you’re ever suffering from increased eye pressure for whatever reason and rush yourself to the ER because your eyeball is about to pop out of your head, you will probably be given sweetened glycerin orally because it will suck all the water out of your bulging eye. You may also be given a glycerin suppository if you’re constipated because it will horde all the moisture in your lower intestine and piss off the mucus glands down there and then… well… have fun with that.
We’ve also got petrolatum (petroleum jelly), and sesame oil which is also apparently a skin conditioning agent? This may also be why Clinique chose to give this product a yellow color? But it actually gets its yellow color from Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Yellow 5 (Tartrazine), and Red 33 (D&C Red 33). Both those yellows suck, by the way. Yellow 6 is banned or restricted as a food additive in Norway, Finland and Sweden. And Yellow 5 causes the most allergic and intolerance reactions of all the azo dyes, particularly among asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance. Symptoms from tartrazine sensitivity can occur by either ingestion or cutaneous exposure to a substance containing tartrazine. Like, I don’t know, using a moisturizer that has it on your face?
“Helps strengthen skin’s own moisture barrier by 54%, so more moisture stays in.” – We’ve got glyceryl stearate and urea which are both softening lubricants that slow the loss of water by forming a barrier on your skin. Also Cucumber extract which DOES NOT soothe irritation like everyone’s grandmother thinks, its just a skin conditioner.
In addition to these we’ve got your typical preservatives (Hey there, Trisodium EDTA!) and quite a few PH balancers like Triethanolamine.
IMPORTANT FACT: If you are vegan, or are avoiding products that contain animal by-products in them, be advised that this moisturizer has Lanolin Alcohol in it. It is a mix of organic alcohols obtained from the hydrolysis (that’s when you break a molecular bond using water) of lanolin. You know how your hair gets oily if you don’t wash it for a few days? Lanolin is the sheep version of that oil. It’s a sebaceous excretion that is washed out of the wool that is sheared off sheep.
To + or not to +?
TWO Shakespeare references in one blog post? I’m too worldly for this $hit. So, the Dramatically Different Moisturizer’s original formula released in 1968 was reformulated in 2014, that’s when it earned it’s “+.” The reformatting was supposedly to include age and environmental defense – this means anti-wrinkle and anti-oxidant stuff. But apparently they just threw in some soothing agents and skin-repairing Sodium Hyaluronate.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, which is the super-lubricating stuff found in your joints and also in your eyeballs. Your skin has a lot of this stuff when you’re young (it gives your skin volume because it retains water), but levels decline with age. Dermatologists will inject this stuff straight into your skin as an anti-aging treatment.
So that accounts for the anti-aging claim, but wheres the antioxidants to combat those free-radicals causing environmental damage? The only potential antioxidant I found in the ingredient list was barley extract. I say “potential” because the sources I found weren’t really sure if it even works as an antioxidant. I’m so impressed (<- sarcasm).
In Conclusion…
I didn’t hate it and I didn’t love it – but I have to give this guy credit, it didn’t trash my face. AND I dig the $0.12 an application price tag. I’d even discussed this with my mother as she’d thought the $26 price tag was a little steep, but compared to some of the other moisturizers I’ve been testing, this guy is downright affordable.
I’m also trying out a new way of applying moisturizer, because apparently there is all sorts of ritualistic crap about skincare that they don’t teach you in English undergrad or whatever. You’re not supposed to rub in moisturizer, you’re supposed to “pat” it in. You know, like an itchy weave. I watched a few videos on youtube by SignatureSeries and this one detailed the voo-doo technique of patting in moisturizer. There are a lot of other how-to videos on this – some saying to rub it in, some saying pat it, some saying you apply it with the tip of your magic wand… but the lady in the video I linked is wearing a lab coat and that makes me feel comfortable believing in everything she says.
Call me crazy, but I noticed an immediate difference in the effect of this moisturizer when I went from rubbing to patting it in like the lady in the video. All of a sudden my skin ate it and wasn’t so greasy afterwards.
I’d say right now this guy stands at a solid 2nd place after Gorgeous.
Sources
http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/
Battle of the Moisturizers: Contestant #3 Kate Somerville – Oil Free Moisturizer
Now that I am a couple months and a few test subjects into this adventure, I can safely say that I have thoroughly confused the skin on my face. Diplomatic relations are not at a good place right now, and my pores are angrier than a white chick in a Starbucks that just ran out of pumpkin spice. The situation on my chin is particularly dire.
The first two contestants were kind of weird, neither of them were really meant to treat acne and they were both geared more towards anti-aging and a whole bunch of other… bull crap, ok? It was all bull crap. I was really hoping that this next contestant would bring some order to this chaos, some balance to the situation, some pumpkin spice lattes to these crazy bit*hes. Lets see how we did…
Kate Somerville – Oil Free Moisturizer
“Oil Free Moisturizer absorbs quickly to provide perfectly balanced hydration and moisturization, without any oils. Formulated without parabens or fragrances, this lightweight cream leaves nothing behind but smooth, supple skin.”
Cost = $65 US
Size = 1.7 fl oz
Extended cost (Cost / Size) = $38/oz
Estimated cost per application = $1.14
Holy crap, its almost half the price of Gorgeous per ounce. She’s already scoring points with me. Though I still cringe at the $1.14/application price tag. This product is quite a bit thinner than other contestants so far and I felt like I had to use more of it, so I amp-ed up the application size to 0.04 oz. It does come in a fancy new pump-top bottle, but I found it frustrating after a while of fiddling with it, you had to pump it and then smear your fingers all over the top to get it all.
The Kate Somerville website and the Sephora website said different things about this moisturizer. Here’s what the Kate website said:
- Essential Amino Acid Derivatives are designed to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Red Marine Algae improves the look of firmness and elasticity
- Algae-Based Tighteners are formulated to tone and tighten
- Oil-Absorbing Spheres balance oily skin for a shine-free look
And here’s what Sephora said:
- Pepha®- Tight: Diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- Red Marine Algae: Helps improve elasticity.
- Sepilift™: Firms and smooths.
- Sugar-based moisturizers: Assist in limiting water loss.
Aaaaaahhhhh, here it goes…
“Essential Amino Acid Derivatives are designed to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles”- Two words – Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, A.K.A. DPHP, Skinlift, and Lipump. Has been shown to improve wrinkles by stimulating the “synthesis of collagen fibers.” Oddly enough, this guy is mostly used for lip plumping.
“Oil-Absorbing Spheres balance oily skin for a shine-free look”- I’m sorry, what? Oil-Absorbing Spheres? WHAT THE FU*K IS THAT?! The ingredient list doesn’t say anything about oil-absorbing spheres. Do you know what I found when I googled “Oil-Absorbing Spheres?” The Scum-Ball Pool Water Clarifier, you can get a pack of 2 for $13!
“Pepha®- Tight: Diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”, “Red Marine Algae: Helps improve elasticity.”, “Algae-Based Tighteners are formulated to tone and tighten”, “Red Marine Algae improves the look of firmness and elasticity”- Ugh, Algae again. All these claims are referring to the same ingredient – “Algae extract.” Pepha-Tight is algae extract from Nannochloropsis oculata and pullulan, its got polysaccharides, amino acids, Vitamin C, and Vitamin B12 and it may be legit for what this moisturizer says it does. Polysaccharides help with inflamation, Vitamin C is also anti-inflammatory and Amino Acids can stimulate collagen formation, lighten skin, treat hyperpigmentation, and heal wounds. Amino Acids can also moisturize without oil – Voila – Oil-free moisturizer.
“Sepilift™: Firms and smooths.”- This is just DPHP again. Gotta get that Lip-plumping action on your face!
“Sugar-based moisturizers: Assist in limiting water loss.”- Okay, this is actually kind of funny. This moisturizer contains Xylitol and you’ll know what that is if you’re a diabetic. Xylitol is a healthy sugar alternative for diabetics and is used commonly as a sugar substitute in “sugar-free” chewing gum and other candies. As a medicine, Xylitol is used to prevent middle ear infections. Its used as a flavoring agent in oral-care products, it has plaque reducing properties and is also used in cosmetics as a humectant (moisturizer). This stuff is like the platypus of sugar alcohols. It is thought to help the skin retain its natural moisture and boost levels of hyaluronic acid, a natural lubricant that assists in collagen production, but I didn’t find too much about that. All I could really confirm was that it was a thickener and a slip agent.
In Conclusion…
I am so disappoint Kate Somerville – and the spelling of your last name is infuriating me. If you’re going to make claims about your product, at least give me some kind of hint at what you’re referring to. Oil-Absorbing Spheres? To me that just says that you think your consumer will swallow everything you shove down their throat without question. When I research these products, I break them down and go ingredient-by-ingredient. Its not rocket surgery, everyone knows how to google. You’re trying to appeal to a populous of people who literally have all of the information on everything ever at their fingertips, don’t boast about something you can’t back up. And If I somehow missed something on your magical Oil-Absorbing spheres of wonder, please enlighten me. But if its algae-related I am going to rip my face off.
I realize I say very little about my actual experience with the product, but I get so excited about researching the claims and ingredients. I Actually liked it a bit at first, I felt as though it was mattefying and evened out my tone. But as the days moved on I still had oiliness in all the usual places and I felt my pores were slightly more clogged than usual. By the end I was so glad to toss this sample and start testing a new moisturizer. I couldn’t find a good balance with this product, I was either not using enough and my face felt dry and tight, or I used too much and I was all slimy. I would say the difference between the two was less than 1/8th of a smidgen. No thank you.
Sources
http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/
Battle of the Moisturizers: Contestant #2 Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare – Hydra-Pure® Oil-Free Moisture with Chelating Complex
Unlike our dearly departed previous contestant, the Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hydra-Pure® Oil-Free Moisture with Chelating Complex (holy crap, long name) was suggested to be by HAL 9000 the Sephora Skincare IQ machine. I have never heard of this brand before and I was immediately skeptical as soon as I saw the price.
But Marina, you said the point was to find a moisturizer that cost LESS than LUSH’s Gorgeous! Why even bother trying this one?
I am really interested in finding something that costs less than $60 an ounce, and I am also looking to find something that could possibly work way better than what I have been using. But most of all, I want to test out the high-end, uber expensive products that make aggrandized claims and see if they really are better than what you can buy at CVS for $5. And THIS GUY is definitely one of those fancy shmancy products I want to run through the gambit. Lets get started –
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare – Hydra-Pure® Oil-Free Moisture with Chelating Complex
Cost = $78 US
Size = 1 fl oz
Extended cost (Cost / Size) = $78/oz
Estimated cost per application = $1.56
I used the same application amount estimate I did with the Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream because the consistency and feel of the two were relatively similar, which means this guy evens out to a whopping $1.56 an application. Holy heart-failure, Batman! I better be impressed. You know there are 514,063 things on Etsy that you can buy for $1.56 or less? A 90’s grunge choker, 1g of organic shea butter, a Kanye West Pin! I actually think i’d rather moisturize my face than have that last one.
So I didn’t really see what about this product constitutes it as “Hydra-Pure?” The first ingredient is water… so there’s that…But thats not really the headline. The big selling point for this guy is it’s “Chelating Complex.” Don’t be dazzled by strange words, kids. Lets talk about Chelation.
What the heck is Chelation?
Pronounced key-LAY-shun, its one way ions or molecules bind to metal ions. Dont worry if you don’t remember from high school chemistry what ions and molecules are, that part doesn’t really matter. What matters is these chelating ions and molecules are kind of like Pac-Man, and they like to chomp down on cherries… or metal ions.
So when Mrs. Pac-Man chomps down on the metal ion, it is rendered chemically inert and will no longer interact with your body. Now, Chelators are SUPER important, and not just for removing those hard-water stains from your shower (no joke, that’s one of the things they’re used for), they’re also key in curing heavy metal intoxication. I’m talking about arsenic, mercury, and lead poisoning. But thats not what we’re talking about with this product – the Chelators here are being used for, among other things (cough-preservatives-cough), neutralizing the “damage” hard water may be doing to your face. We’re talking about the calcium and magnesium that seeps in from old pipes and deposits in the ground that give 85% of homes in the USA what is refered to as “hard water.” Heres a full list of what this product claims to do:
- Softens hard water and removes heavy metals that antioxidants cannot
- Combats free radical damage
- Decreases redness and irritation
- Eradicates dull skin
- Eliminates waxy plugs/blackheads
- Cures the oil chemistry disorder that leads to acne and clogged pores
- Improves penetration of active ingredients
- Allows trace minerals beneficial to the skin to be absorbed
- Dual-mechanism, lightweight moisturizer provides immediate and long-term hydration
You guys know the drill, lets take this one by one –
“Softens hard water and removes heavy metals that antioxidants cannot”- This bit was news to me, I had heard of hard water making your hair gross, and that’s why they make shower heads with water filters in them, but I’d never thought of what it’d do to your skin. I did some googling and came across this article from SELF magazine. Holy cannoli! Its all right here! The acne, how the minerals clog pores, the irritation, everything this moisturizer claims to do! And they’re even getting their info from a real doctor, Dr. Dennis-… Wait a minute. “Dr. Dennis Gross, Manhattan dermatologist and founder of the Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare product line.” But can you blame the guy? Hes just trying to sell his expensive stuff – its the American dream.
I am leaning towards calling bullsh*t on this claim that Chelators can do so many amazing things for your skin. According to Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine “Chelators are used in almost every personal care formulation type to increase effectiveness and improve stability, thereby improving consumer acceptance. In addition, they have demonstrated the ability to boost preservative activity. Chelators are used in liquid soap and body wash to prevent fragrance and color degradation and for their synergistic effect with antimicrobials. They are also incorporated into bar soap to prevent rancidity, softening, brown-spotting, cracking and discoloration due to metal ions, as well as to enhance foaming and rinsability.” Chelators are everywhere, and the ones in this moisturizer aren’t that special. Not to mention, how effective can they be when they’re in a moisturizer? You’ve already washed and dried your face and the oils in your skin are hard at work neutralizing metal ions on their own. Thats right, thats what they’re there for.
(I’ll get off my soapbox now, no pun intended, the rest of this will be quick, I promise)
“Combats free radical damage” – This is what antioxidants do, and this product does have a lot of very effective ones. Free radical damage basically means oxidation (its when a molecule loses an electron and becomes unstable, Antioxidants have electrons to spare and donate them – but that’s a WHOLE ‘nother post). But one of the antioxidants is soy isoflavones – which means don’t use this moisturizer if you’re allergic to soy.
“Decreases redness and irritation” – This Is another claim of Dr. Gross’, (this guy must have been made fun of when he was a kid) said reddness and irritation is allegedly caused by the soap scum on your face. File this under “meh… mabey.”
“Eradicates dull skin” – I’m sure you guys remember our friend Tetrasodium EDTA from the Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream, well guess who is back and is also a chelator? For those of you yet to catch up, Tetrasodium EDTA “reversably” damages the top layers of your skin so whatever its mixed with can absorb better. The internet hates this stuff, but i’m on the fence.
“Eliminates waxy plugs/blackheads” – Oh boy, chelators are soooo fancy! They can also do your taxes and walk your dog!
“Cures the oil chemistry disorder that leads to acne and clogged pores” – “Ugh, chelators, chelators, chelators!”
“Improves penetration of active ingredients” – (cough-Tetrasodium EDTA – Cough)
“Allows trace minerals beneficial to the skin to be absorbed” – Yawn, this guy is just going on about the same ingredients..
“Dual-mechanism, lightweight moisturizer provides immediate and long-term hydration” – I don’t really know what Doc is on about with this one, but I will say that this product has a lot of skin conditioning ingredients. I mean A LOT! At least twice what the Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream had. Maybe that’s the “long term hydration?” I don’t even know anymore.
In Conclusion…
I know it really sounds like I’m hating on this moisturizer, but the truth is i’m being skeptical because I REALLY want to believe all the things its claiming to do. I think a lot of it make sense theoretically, but I have a hard time accepting a product that claims to do so many things without solid scientific studies to back it up, even if the product is made by a licensed dermatologist. Like my homeboy Justin and homegirl Sydnee say on their podcast Sawbones “Cure-alls cure NOTHING!” (p.s., if you’re not listening to Sawbones, we can’t be friends)
I do have relatively hard water and I didn’t see anything miraculous while using this product, but I believe a 5 day trial-run sample wasn’t enough to see any improvement. I feel like if there are benefits to what Dr. Gross is selling, they’re best seen in the long-run. Unfortunately $78 a bottle is out of the question for long-run use for me. Sorry Doc.
New Contestants!
Ladies and Gentlemen, Dior’s Capture Totale Dreamskin has entered the building! I decided to test this one out after seeing Bunny a.k.a Grav3yardgirl talk about it on her YouTube channel. I love that chick, but I wanna see for myself If I can really get me some dreamskin, and at $115 a bottle I am ready for some serious testing.
We do have another candidate hiding out, but hes a secret that will be revealed in a haul coming very soon, I promise! BE EXCITED!
Sources
Battle of the Moisturizers: Contestant #1 Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream
The Rose Hydrating Gel Cream from Fresh was not one of the products suggested to me by Hal 9000 The Sephora Skincare IQ, but was suggested by the kindly computer slave Sephora Lady, and I was able to pick a sample of it up in the fancy Customized Skincare Favorites Bag. Field testing and ingredient analysis for this, the first contestant in the Battle of the Moisturizers has completed, so lets begin –
Hot diggity daffodil, did this stuff smell lovely! I don’t think I have ever smelled a better moisturizer, but what do I know about smells – we’ve already discussed how LUSH’s Gorgeous smells like tortillas to me (I’ve had a cat scan, its not brain cancer). That’s the biggest thing that stuck out to me, but lemmie give you some facts:
Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream 
Cost = $42 US
Size = 1.6 fl oz
Extended cost (Cost / Size) = $26.25/oz
Estimated cost per application = $0.52
Here’s how I figured that part out: The sample I received was 0.16 fl oz and this was enough for 9 days with one application per day, that meant I was using approximately 0.02 fl oz a day. Divide that by the full size and it came out to about 80 applications, and $42 into 80 meant each application would cost me about $0.52.
And here is what the Fresh website has to say about what this product is supposed to do:
- Rosewater helps to soothe and rose flower oil and jojoba oil help to nourish.
- Porphyridium cruentum, a “smart” algae, helps to deliver optimum moisture.
- Angelica leaf extract is known to improve moisture-retention.**
- Rhodiola root extract is a protective antioxidant.**
- Hyaluronic acid helps attract and maintain moisture to restore suppleness.
- Cucumber extract helps to calm and cool the skin.
** = In Vivo/In Vitro – experiments that are performed with cells or biological molecules studied outside their normal biological context, this means the research and testing behind these claims was done in a test tube, and not necessarily seen on someone’s face. That being said, I could not find any information as to if this product is free of animal testing.
I’m going to break down each item on the list of things it’s supposed to do, then i’ll go into what I felt it did for me.
“Rosewater helps to soothe and rose flower oil and jojoba oil help to nourish.”
I’m gonna say affirmative on the Jojoba oil. I found several credible sources confirming, with documentation, that Jojoba oil enhances the skin’s ability to repair itself, stand up to UV radiation, stimulate collagen (apparently that’s a good type of goo your skin makes), and provide topical anti-inflammatory benefits. The rosewater – has a lot of antimicrobial activities and is expensive because of it’s low oil content. The rose flower oil, however? Listed as Rosa Damascena Flower Oil in their ingredients, is a fragrant, volatile oil that can be a skin irritant and sensitizer. There is no research showing this has any benefit for skin. Maybe they added it for the smell? I dunno, but it definitely didn’t seem like something that would “nourish.” I’d rather a moisturizer not irritate my skin than smell nice.
“Porphyridium cruentum, a “smart” algae, helps to deliver optimum moisture.”
“Meh, maybe not” on this one. Algae seems to be the new cool kid in cosmetics, it hangs out with those adorable Korean beauty products and the weird Clarisonic face vibrators. This particular type of algae is derived from a red algae. There is research showing that it has some fatty acids and polysaccharides that are “skin friendly, but whether or not the entire red algae extract provides benefit when applied topically on skin has not been proven.
“Angelica leaf extract is known to improve moisture-retention.**”
Angelica Keiskei Extract, as its listed in the ingredients, has been labeled as an emollient by the European Commission. According to that same source its also an Antioxidant, astringent, and has skin conditioning and skin protecting properties. Thumbs up!
“Rhodiola root extract is a protective antioxidant.**”
Rhodiola Crenulata Root Extract does just that. Also an astringent and skin-conditioning agent.
“Hyaluronic acid helps attract and maintain moisture to restore suppleness.”
Correct again. Sodium Hyaluronate enhances the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness
“Cucumber extract helps to calm and cool the skin.”
Negative, ghost rider. Claims of cucumber having anti-inflammatory or soothing properties are hokum, as there is no research to support this claim. However, there is research showing the lutein component of cucumber can have an effect on suppressing melanogenesis, or the process that leads to skin discolorations. Additional in-vitro research has shown that the constituents in cucumber can help protect skin against carcinogenic substances.
So…
It gets 4/6 of its promises confirmed. But honestly, i’m not too pleased with what else I found about its ingredients. Aside from it’s headliners, this gel cream has other run-of-the mill ingredients like some slip agents (helps you spread it around), a few other moisturizers, some elumsifiers (helps things mix), and Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Citronellol, and Geraniol provide more fragrance. Those are all fine and dandy, but who invited Tetrasodium EDTA to the party? This guy is listed as a preservative and a penetration enhancer. That means its “reversibly” damages the top surfaces of your skin so that whatever its mixed with can absorb deeper. Its allegedly made from a couple carcinogens and the internet is a garbled mess about wither its safe or not.
Its also got CI 19140 (Yellow 5) , CI 14700 (Red 4) , and CI 15985 (Yellow 6). These are artificial colors, the latter 2 being restricted as a food additive in Europe. Red 4 is currently only allowed in the US for drugs, cosmetics, and one food… maraschino cherries. Apparently those are considered a “decoration” and not a food and that’s why its allowed. Yeah, won’t ask for those in my whiskey sour anymore. If the FDA says I don’t need it in my body, then I don’t need it on my face either.
Overall
This gel cream left my face oily. Even left to absorb overnight, my t-zone was slick and shiny. I did break out with about 3 large, painful zits in places on my face I don’t usually get them while using this guy. I feel like I had a little more half-way-through-the-day makeup separation than usual. There wasn’t much “calming” going on, and for $0.52 per application, it did not do anything spectacular for my face.
I am so sorry Fresh Rose Hydrating Gel Cream, but you can sashay away. You’ve been cut. You are the weakest link. YOU’RE FIRED. We will be pursuing other applicants at this time. Its not me, its you.
Fortunately, and much to my excite, as we kick this gel cream from the running, a new mystery contestant has appeared and entered the ring! It is being shipped from the mysterious lands of Amazon and will be featured in a haul post once I piece together all the separate shipments of goodies I’m getting. ITS GONNA BE AWESOME!
Sources
The Battle of the Moisturizers
Apparently moisturizers are important. Very important. So much so that there’s a gazillion of them and they can cost an obscene amount of money. The only piece of cosmetic advice my grandmother ever gave me is “be sure you’re moisturizing every night,” and my childhood was awash with the smells of Neutrogena and Aveeno facial moisturizer with SPF – my mother wore that stuff religiously, rain or shine. The combination of her painfully fair and delicate complexion and my father’s invincible olive skin of the gods has left my face very confused.
So when I started running dangerously low on my current weapon of choice (LUSH’S Vanishing Cream ), I couldn’t help but wonder if there was something out there that was better for me. Something magical and medicinal and … slightly cheaper perhaps, and I decided to embark on a journey. A journey full of countless little tinctures of what is essentially silicone and plant goop. A journey to bring justice to those who adorn their product in a veil of empty promises, and vindication to those whose promises are kept. An adventure where in I, not unlike Magellan, will circumvent the vast sea of modern cosmetics and do battle with their exotic ingredients, their clever marketing, and their outrageous claims.
I have many names… the most legal one being Marina (Hello!), and in the ripe old age of my late 20’s, with my career obtained and a tiny disposable income at the ready, I have decided to learn…
How to : “Girl.”
So come, be the Lewis to my Clarke – the Spock to my Kirk – the Chewie to my Han as we brave the depths of modern femininity and document our failures epically. We start at the most basic level, the foundation of the foundation (that’ll be a whole ‘nother post, i’m sure), the moisturizer.
And like any journey, one of the most important things you need is a map –
Sexy. And, like I said – confused. In my research I have discovered that my skin situation is what is referred to as “combination.” I fit under the great miscellaneous category of “well… you’re screwed.” My eyelids could provide enough crude to power a small town in Texas, my chin is a sebum-filled minefield dwarfed only by the no man zone that is my nose, and my jawline is dryer than the British version of “The Office.” It is because I have so many things going on that I don’t have a lot of faith that there is going to be a single product capable of addressing all my issues, but ain’t nobody got time to use two different moisturizers on their face. I got sh*t to do.
As I mentioned before, the product I have been using for the last year is Vanishing Cream by LUSH. Its pretty safe to say that I know a little but about LUSH’s products, when it comes to moisturizers alone I have also used Imperialis , Full of Grace, Enzymion, and Gorgeous. The problem is none of them have every wowed me… except for Gorgeous.
This thing is allegedly “the finest quality moisturizer on the market.” A whole mess of cold-pressed, organic oils from a large list of things that sound like they’d taste pretty good in a salad together go into this puppy. Its reportedly great for every skin type, age, tone, whatever. I’ve sampled it extensively and I really like it. Its light, it makes my skin feel fresh and clean and elasticky and young, it smells kind of like tortillas (its supposed to be orange blossom scented, don’t ask me why my nose translates orange blossom into tortillas, its probably brain cancer), and its wonderful and I love it. Its apparently the cold pressed part that makes it so effective… and expensive.
How expensive, you ask? 1.5 ounces will run you $89.95 US + tax. That’s right, $60 an ounce! I can’t do it, I just can’t. There are so many other things I could do with $90 bucks. That’s gas for a month (I don’t get out much). That is A LOT of yarn. That’s 22.5 lattes. 13 Publix Deli subs. I could get TWO new Filofaxes with $90! (Oh, more on those later)
But I am not sure its worth it. Can a bunch of plant oils, some emulsifiers, and preserving parabens all mixed together really be the absolute best thing for me? And can 1.5 ounces of it really be worth more than I made in a whole week while I was working in college, all because the oils are “cold pressed?” Imma find out.
Now, I’ve got nothing against LUSH. I basically have a mini-LUSH store in my bathroom, its a problem. If it turns out that Gorgeous is better than everything else – great, and i’ll know EXACTLY why, right down to the chemical level. And if its not? I’ll still know exactly why, and maybe save myself some money while I’m at it.
So I had no idea what moisturizers to try, but it turns out there is a place called Sephora , and in the very back of this mystical place there is a giant computer that knows all, the Skincare IQ Computer. I told HAL 9000 the Computer that I wanted a moisturizer, that I had the “combination” skins, and that my primary concerns were Acne/Blemishes and Oiliness. I actually tried several different things in combination with “Acne/Blemishes” and it pretty much kept returning the same results. It then printed them on a little slip of paper and the nice Sephora Skincare IQ Computer slave Lady gave me free samples! I also purchased the Sephora Favorites Customized Skincare Favorites Bag that got me 2 more moisturizers to try, along with 3 other “deluxe size” samples and a cool bag for $25. I was pleased.
So that leaves us with 4 contestants! I’ll most likely be adding more as I find ones to try and rule others out. I am going to closely analyze how each effects my skin as well as break down their ingredients to see if they are really all they’re cracked up to be and maybe even try to find some dupes. Without any further adoo – here they are:
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Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream : A daily moisturizer proven to provide up to 24 hours of significant hydration.
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Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ : A luxurious moisturizer that promotes smooth, healthy-looking skin.
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Kate Somerville Oil Free Moisturizer : An antiaging hydrator for combination and oily skin.
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Dr. Dennis Gross SkincareHydra-Pure® Oil-Free Moisture with Chelating Complex™ : A lightweight, oil-free moisturizer with an exclusive Chelating Complex.
How 2: "Girl" 