Moisturizer
Battle of the Moisturizers: Contestant #5 Josie Maran – 100 percent Pure Argan Oil Light
“So… you’re telling me to put straight up oil on my face.”
“Yes.”
“To use oil to moisturize my already oily face.”
“Yes.”
“And there’s nothing in it but Argan oil… and its almost $30 an ounce?”
“Well, they call it ‘liquid gold.’ Its a miracle oil.”
Oh Jesus Christ, here we go…
Josie Maran 100 percent Pure Argan Oil Light
“A featherweight version of the world champion of oils, 100% Pure Argan Oil Light moisturizes deeply and absorbs quickly, leaving a semi-matte finish. Produced by Moroccan women’s co-ops, this top-grade Argan Oil is extracted from the nut of the argan tree, then first-cold-pressed to protect its healthy, hydrating properties. Wear it under makeup or instead of makeup, and fear not if your skin is oily. This must-have oil actually reduces sebum production, so it is ideal for all skin types, especially breakout-prone and sensitive..”
Cost = $48 US
Size = 1.7 fl oz
Extended cost (Cost / Size) = $28.23/oz
Estimated cost per application = *??
*I wasn’t really able to accurately estimate how much of the product I was using per application, so unfortunately I am unable to provide an estimated cost per application.
I am instantly suspicious of any product advertised alongside words like “miracle.” That is such an awful word to use in advertising, and 9.9 times out of 10 there is absolutely no miracle present in the product it describes. But is there any miracle to be found in this argan oil stuff? Lets talk about that.
Firstly, this is the “light” version of Josie Maran’s %100 Argan Oil product. Its light because instead of
containing straight up argan oil, it is made up of Natural Argan Isostearylic Esters. I am not even going to try to explain what those are. I play Destiny with a good doctor friend of mine who’s a Pharmacist and he tried to explain to me what Esters are for almost 3 hours while we killed aliens and I got nothing for you. It has to do with carbons and chemistry and how oxygen likes to hold hands with things… and that’s all I have to say about that.
According to Josie Maran, “Argan Light is lighter in texture and in color, and it absorbs even faster, and it leaves a semi-matte finish. 100% Pure Argan Oil Light is made from one ingredient: 100% Pure Argan Oil.” But what the heck is this argan oil?
So Argan oil is whats pressed from the teeny, hard-to-get kernel of the fruit that grows on the Argan tree. These trees are endemic to Algeria and Morocco where goats like to climb all over them to eat the nut things. And now you know why I drew little goats on the main picture.
The Argan tree was actually endangered up until everyone in the US decided this oil what the bees knees (which is more than we can say for the bees). Western demand has spurred a real comeback for these trees and the Moroccan government has planted thousands of them and set up co-ops for people to work the orchards.
These trees are kind of divas to work with. Firstly, they ONLY grow in very specific desert-y climates. Secondly, they don’t start to produce fruit until they’re about 15 years old. And thirdly, no one has been able to develop a mechanized process to crack the shell of the nut and extract the kernel. This part of the process still has to happen by hand and this is where the women’s co-ops come in. Dozens of women sit together singing, chatting, and cracking these nuts open by hand. Sounds like a party to me.
Many of the co-ops that produce argan oil are exclusively for women. This is awesome because in the strictly patriarchal society in Morocco, the co-ops provide these women with a “steady income, a fair wage, decent working conditions, and literacy and other education classes that give them freedom and options in a traditionally male-dominated society.” According to their website, Josie Maran Cosmetics sources all of their Argan oil from women’s co-ops in Morocco. Claims of this “miracle” oil aside, that is awesome. If this product really worked for me and I liked it, I would have no qualms paying $30/oz IF I could be sure that a fair share of that price were going to those women’s co-ops. As it were, I wasn’t able to find any info on if the argan oil is also fair trade.
So this stuff really is just an oily liquid you put straight on your face. While testing it out I couldn’t help but think of the women I’ve heard about who use straight up olive oil as a facial moisturizer. That seemed weird to me because in my mind olive oil is a food – but so is argan oil. In Morocco you traditionally dip bread in argan oil and eat that for breakfast (you know, like at Carrabba’s). I also read about a spread you put on bread made of argan oil, almonds, and honey. Its called Amlou and it sounds delicious.
Its also good for you – Researchers have concluded that daily consumption of argan oil can help prevent various cancers, cardiovascular diseases, and obesity. I need some Amlou, stat.
In Conclusion…
All the interesting facts aside – did it work?
No. It did not work for me. It could work for you, but my skin was having none of it.
I found it a little difficult to apply because I was literally using a little dropper and dripping oil onto my fingers, it was also hard to apply because my skin literally ate this stuff. It absorbed so fast I couldn’t spread it around very well. Within a day or two I started getting painful, deep-down pimples on the oilier parts of my combination face. I also noticed that 8 hours or so after applying the product, my whole face was extremely greasy.
I also read that it could be used as a leave-in conditioner for your hair and an oil for your cuticles. It made my hair way to greasy and my cuticles too dry for some reason? I don’t even know.
My guess is this may work really well for some people, but I just don’t have the proper Mediterranean genes for this to work for me. I am way to Scandinavian for this.
Sources
http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/
Is the New Josie Maran Argan Oil Light Better than the Original?
Battle of the Moisturizers: Contestant #4 Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+
I am beginning to feel as though I have flung myself haphazardly into a cosmetic maelstrom of chaos and knocked my entire equilibrium astray into a violent quasar. Toners and serums and essences and masks and exfoliators and wipes and LETS TRY ALL THE THINGS RIGHT NOW! Yeah, that was smart.
At this point, my skin is so pissed off that it would break up with me if it could. Our relationship hasn’t been this tumultuous since high school when I had to slather myself in those super acne fighting pads that were so alcoholic they gave you a contact high.
Right now all I want is to NOT look like a pizza-faced 13 year old.
I have to be honest, even at $87 for 1.5oz, LUSH’s Gorgeous is starting to look reeeeally good right about now. Things were so simple between us. After a quick spray with some Tea Tree Water, I’d put it on – my face would smell like tortillas- and that would be it. No acne, no drama, no sacrificing of a small goat. But those were the halcyon days, before the makeups and serums and weird products from other worlds. Before I bought my very own domain and decided to pretend to be a fancy beauty blogger and bribe my friends and family to read the boring shit I have to say about lip stains and Kool-aid. But I digest…
Once more into the breach, dear friends, once more.
(Srsly tho, how many beauty bloggers out there quote Richard III? I’m so fancy)
Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+
“A luxurious moisturizer that promotes smooth, healthy-looking skin.” – I sure as hell hope so Clinique, I am in no mood. If I so much as hear the word “chelator” from you…
Cost = $26 US
Size = 4.2 fl oz
Extended cost (Cost / Size) = $6.19/oz
Estimated cost per application = $0.12
- Dermatologist-developed formula combines all-day hydration with skin-strengthening ingredients to help skin look younger, longer.
- Helps strengthen skin’s own moisture barrier by 54%, so more moisture stays in.
Thank god, I only have two claims to confirm/debunk. Kind of phoning it in on this one…
Dermatologist-developed formula combines all-day hydration with skin-strengthening ingredients to help skin look younger, longer. – Hydrating and Strengthening? Sure, okay. We’ve got Glycerin which is hydroscopic (meaning it hordes water wherever it can find it) and when combined with other oils is a “cornerstone” of many moisturizers.
FUN FACT: If you’re ever suffering from increased eye pressure for whatever reason and rush yourself to the ER because your eyeball is about to pop out of your head, you will probably be given sweetened glycerin orally because it will suck all the water out of your bulging eye. You may also be given a glycerin suppository if you’re constipated because it will horde all the moisture in your lower intestine and piss off the mucus glands down there and then… well… have fun with that.
We’ve also got petrolatum (petroleum jelly), and sesame oil which is also apparently a skin conditioning agent? This may also be why Clinique chose to give this product a yellow color? But it actually gets its yellow color from Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Yellow 5 (Tartrazine), and Red 33 (D&C Red 33). Both those yellows suck, by the way. Yellow 6 is banned or restricted as a food additive in Norway, Finland and Sweden. And Yellow 5 causes the most allergic and intolerance reactions of all the azo dyes, particularly among asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance. Symptoms from tartrazine sensitivity can occur by either ingestion or cutaneous exposure to a substance containing tartrazine. Like, I don’t know, using a moisturizer that has it on your face?
“Helps strengthen skin’s own moisture barrier by 54%, so more moisture stays in.” – We’ve got glyceryl stearate and urea which are both softening lubricants that slow the loss of water by forming a barrier on your skin. Also Cucumber extract which DOES NOT soothe irritation like everyone’s grandmother thinks, its just a skin conditioner.
In addition to these we’ve got your typical preservatives (Hey there, Trisodium EDTA!) and quite a few PH balancers like Triethanolamine.
IMPORTANT FACT: If you are vegan, or are avoiding products that contain animal by-products in them, be advised that this moisturizer has Lanolin Alcohol in it. It is a mix of organic alcohols obtained from the hydrolysis (that’s when you break a molecular bond using water) of lanolin. You know how your hair gets oily if you don’t wash it for a few days? Lanolin is the sheep version of that oil. It’s a sebaceous excretion that is washed out of the wool that is sheared off sheep.
To + or not to +?
TWO Shakespeare references in one blog post? I’m too worldly for this $hit. So, the Dramatically Different Moisturizer’s original formula released in 1968 was reformulated in 2014, that’s when it earned it’s “+.” The reformatting was supposedly to include age and environmental defense – this means anti-wrinkle and anti-oxidant stuff. But apparently they just threw in some soothing agents and skin-repairing Sodium Hyaluronate.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, which is the super-lubricating stuff found in your joints and also in your eyeballs. Your skin has a lot of this stuff when you’re young (it gives your skin volume because it retains water), but levels decline with age. Dermatologists will inject this stuff straight into your skin as an anti-aging treatment.
So that accounts for the anti-aging claim, but wheres the antioxidants to combat those free-radicals causing environmental damage? The only potential antioxidant I found in the ingredient list was barley extract. I say “potential” because the sources I found weren’t really sure if it even works as an antioxidant. I’m so impressed (<- sarcasm).
In Conclusion…
I didn’t hate it and I didn’t love it – but I have to give this guy credit, it didn’t trash my face. AND I dig the $0.12 an application price tag. I’d even discussed this with my mother as she’d thought the $26 price tag was a little steep, but compared to some of the other moisturizers I’ve been testing, this guy is downright affordable.
I’m also trying out a new way of applying moisturizer, because apparently there is all sorts of ritualistic crap about skincare that they don’t teach you in English undergrad or whatever. You’re not supposed to rub in moisturizer, you’re supposed to “pat” it in. You know, like an itchy weave. I watched a few videos on youtube by SignatureSeries and this one detailed the voo-doo technique of patting in moisturizer. There are a lot of other how-to videos on this – some saying to rub it in, some saying pat it, some saying you apply it with the tip of your magic wand… but the lady in the video I linked is wearing a lab coat and that makes me feel comfortable believing in everything she says.
Call me crazy, but I noticed an immediate difference in the effect of this moisturizer when I went from rubbing to patting it in like the lady in the video. All of a sudden my skin ate it and wasn’t so greasy afterwards.
I’d say right now this guy stands at a solid 2nd place after Gorgeous.
Sources
http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/
Korean Beauty Products – Part #1
I mentioned in my previous blog post about the Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream that there are some new cool kids in the cosmetics world. Algae and those vibrating face scrubbers being two of them I listed, but the third was one was so whimsical, so disgustingly cute – I had to try some. Luckily for me, the magical world of Amazon Prime made my wish come true. I now present to you – straight outta the makeup bags of thousands of squealing K-Pop fan-girls, Ladies and Gentlemen –
Adorable packaging, irresistible marketing, cute and cuddly characters, weird and unorthodox ingredients? Holy cannoli – if this stuff was meth, I wouldn’t have any teeth left. I was once again inspired by Bunny a.k.a Grav3yardgirl when she did a haul from a Korean beauty supplier. Shortly thereafter I stumbled upon the new Korean Beauty Shop on Amazon – with almost 700 blessed products from the promised land, I was in trouble. This. Stuff. Is. Brilliant. I wanted to try everything, and ordered so many products, I’ll have to break this into two parts. Because not only is it adorable, its affordable. (See what I did there?)
TONYMOLY – Egg Pore Nose Pack, 7 Sheets – $5.98
Just yer basic pore strip as far as I could tell, except its made from EGGS! I saw quite a few products that were made with eggs and they were all geared towards pore cleaning and blackhead elimination. The only downside of this guy? It smells AWFUL! Like week old scrambled eggs someone spritzed perfume on. Yuck. And the fact that it sits right on your nose doesn’t make that any easier to handle.
I’d say they work as well as any pore strip I’ve bought stateside, but they’re probably a little cheaper. Pretty good deal if you can stand the smell.
TONYMOLY- I’m real mask, 11 sheets – $14.27
This was a steal. Seriously. If you are inclined to try any of the products I’m showing you, this should be it. The TONYMOLY face masks are sold in the pre-register line traps at Sephora in packs of 2 for $7.50. They also sell them at Urban Outfitters for $4 each. I got 11 of them, one of each kind they make, for $14. So you can buy them at Urban Outfitters for $4 each, Sephora for $3.75 each, or Amazon for $1.29. There should be no question in your mind.
I love all the different kinds, and they each are touted to do different things: Avocado gives you nutrition, rice clears your skin, red wine clears your pores, ect. There’s even a broccoli one (which does NOT smell like broccoli) that gives you “vitality.” I could care less if all that’s true, they make your skin feel great either way and they’re adorably awesome. I definitely will be ordering these guys again.
Innisfree – No Sebum Mineral Pact – $10
I like how these Korean products don’t beat around the bush. They don’t use dainty words like “oil control” or “shine control.” No. Straight up “NO SEBUM.” I like it. And boy, does this little guy deliver.
I’ve been using it to set (that means you put a powder on top of a liquid to make it stick, the more you know) what contouring and/or foundation I put on the oilier parts of my face -see post #1 The Battle of the Moisturizers for a topographical map. It does a fantastic job of keeping those areas matte and leaves my skin feeling very soft. I also carry it around with me when I wear a full face of makeup for periodic re-mattefying. This is another product that I will be purchasing again.
The Face Shop – Chia Seed Sebum Control Moisture Cream – $15.94
And here we have our much anticipated new contestant for the Battle of the Moisturizers! Made with chia seeds (of the chia pet variety), this guy has quite a few positive reviews and is very affordable.
Its currently in line behind the Dior Dreamskin for testing, so I can’t really say much about it, but it sure smells good! I did try it once just to have a whack at it and It made my skin a little tight? It almost made my skin feeling a little squeaky? I dunno, my official opinion will have to wait for after testing.
We’ll be breaking this guy down in the usual way once it gets it turn to do its thing on my face – stay tuned!
The Face Shop – Protect Me Hand Cream – $9.98
I don’t even need to say anything about this one. Just look at it. Freaking look at it. This stuff could smell like week-old mayonnaise and I’d still carry it around with me.
It super doesn’t smell like week old mayonnaise tho, it smells amazing.
LOOK AT IT! I bought 2 and gave one as a gift. I haven’t even used it because I don’t want to. Its too cute for me to use. I got the avocado kind, but there are also cocoa butter and mango scents. I will be purchasing both of those as well. Don’t judge me.
Another thing to note, they did just start carrying the cocoa butter version of this guy (along with a few TONYMOLY and other Korean Beauty products) at Urban Outfitters for $12.
TONYMOLY – Panda’s Dream So Cool Eye Stick – $6.98
Another TONYMOLY product you can get on Amazon for half of what Urban Outfitters is selling it for. I was super expecting this to be menthol-y, like you normally would with any product in the US that is supposed to be “cooling.” WRONG! Zero menthol smell, no awkward stinging feeling, just cooling!
I first tried it on the back of my hand and almost jumped out of my desk chair. I then went around and smudged it on all my male co-workers (I wasn’t discriminating, they’re all male, everyone got smudged fairly) and they were equally taken aback… but that may have been because I was chasing them with a little panda stick. I like to use this when I first get up in the morning. I also imagine it would be rather soothing the next time I get a cold.
Etude House – My Beauty Tool – Lovely Etti Hair Band – $5.36
And I got a hair band. With cat ears.
CAT.
EARS.
OMFGWTFBBQKFC!!!1!!!ONE!!!!!!!!!!!
I don’t have to explain myself to you people.
We’ll that’s it for part #1! Stick around for part #2 where I obsess over more adorable products made by the Korean gods of cuteness!
Battle of the Moisturizers: Contestant #3 Kate Somerville – Oil Free Moisturizer
Now that I am a couple months and a few test subjects into this adventure, I can safely say that I have thoroughly confused the skin on my face. Diplomatic relations are not at a good place right now, and my pores are angrier than a white chick in a Starbucks that just ran out of pumpkin spice. The situation on my chin is particularly dire.
The first two contestants were kind of weird, neither of them were really meant to treat acne and they were both geared more towards anti-aging and a whole bunch of other… bull crap, ok? It was all bull crap. I was really hoping that this next contestant would bring some order to this chaos, some balance to the situation, some pumpkin spice lattes to these crazy bit*hes. Lets see how we did…
Kate Somerville – Oil Free Moisturizer
“Oil Free Moisturizer absorbs quickly to provide perfectly balanced hydration and moisturization, without any oils. Formulated without parabens or fragrances, this lightweight cream leaves nothing behind but smooth, supple skin.”
Cost = $65 US
Size = 1.7 fl oz
Extended cost (Cost / Size) = $38/oz
Estimated cost per application = $1.14
Holy crap, its almost half the price of Gorgeous per ounce. She’s already scoring points with me. Though I still cringe at the $1.14/application price tag. This product is quite a bit thinner than other contestants so far and I felt like I had to use more of it, so I amp-ed up the application size to 0.04 oz. It does come in a fancy new pump-top bottle, but I found it frustrating after a while of fiddling with it, you had to pump it and then smear your fingers all over the top to get it all.
The Kate Somerville website and the Sephora website said different things about this moisturizer. Here’s what the Kate website said:
- Essential Amino Acid Derivatives are designed to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Red Marine Algae improves the look of firmness and elasticity
- Algae-Based Tighteners are formulated to tone and tighten
- Oil-Absorbing Spheres balance oily skin for a shine-free look
And here’s what Sephora said:
- Pepha®- Tight: Diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- Red Marine Algae: Helps improve elasticity.
- Sepilift™: Firms and smooths.
- Sugar-based moisturizers: Assist in limiting water loss.
Aaaaaahhhhh, here it goes…
“Essential Amino Acid Derivatives are designed to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles”- Two words – Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, A.K.A. DPHP, Skinlift, and Lipump. Has been shown to improve wrinkles by stimulating the “synthesis of collagen fibers.” Oddly enough, this guy is mostly used for lip plumping.
“Oil-Absorbing Spheres balance oily skin for a shine-free look”- I’m sorry, what? Oil-Absorbing Spheres? WHAT THE FU*K IS THAT?! The ingredient list doesn’t say anything about oil-absorbing spheres. Do you know what I found when I googled “Oil-Absorbing Spheres?” The Scum-Ball Pool Water Clarifier, you can get a pack of 2 for $13!
“Pepha®- Tight: Diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”, “Red Marine Algae: Helps improve elasticity.”, “Algae-Based Tighteners are formulated to tone and tighten”, “Red Marine Algae improves the look of firmness and elasticity”- Ugh, Algae again. All these claims are referring to the same ingredient – “Algae extract.” Pepha-Tight is algae extract from Nannochloropsis oculata and pullulan, its got polysaccharides, amino acids, Vitamin C, and Vitamin B12 and it may be legit for what this moisturizer says it does. Polysaccharides help with inflamation, Vitamin C is also anti-inflammatory and Amino Acids can stimulate collagen formation, lighten skin, treat hyperpigmentation, and heal wounds. Amino Acids can also moisturize without oil – Voila – Oil-free moisturizer.
“Sepilift™: Firms and smooths.”- This is just DPHP again. Gotta get that Lip-plumping action on your face!
“Sugar-based moisturizers: Assist in limiting water loss.”- Okay, this is actually kind of funny. This moisturizer contains Xylitol and you’ll know what that is if you’re a diabetic. Xylitol is a healthy sugar alternative for diabetics and is used commonly as a sugar substitute in “sugar-free” chewing gum and other candies. As a medicine, Xylitol is used to prevent middle ear infections. Its used as a flavoring agent in oral-care products, it has plaque reducing properties and is also used in cosmetics as a humectant (moisturizer). This stuff is like the platypus of sugar alcohols. It is thought to help the skin retain its natural moisture and boost levels of hyaluronic acid, a natural lubricant that assists in collagen production, but I didn’t find too much about that. All I could really confirm was that it was a thickener and a slip agent.
In Conclusion…
I am so disappoint Kate Somerville – and the spelling of your last name is infuriating me. If you’re going to make claims about your product, at least give me some kind of hint at what you’re referring to. Oil-Absorbing Spheres? To me that just says that you think your consumer will swallow everything you shove down their throat without question. When I research these products, I break them down and go ingredient-by-ingredient. Its not rocket surgery, everyone knows how to google. You’re trying to appeal to a populous of people who literally have all of the information on everything ever at their fingertips, don’t boast about something you can’t back up. And If I somehow missed something on your magical Oil-Absorbing spheres of wonder, please enlighten me. But if its algae-related I am going to rip my face off.
I realize I say very little about my actual experience with the product, but I get so excited about researching the claims and ingredients. I Actually liked it a bit at first, I felt as though it was mattefying and evened out my tone. But as the days moved on I still had oiliness in all the usual places and I felt my pores were slightly more clogged than usual. By the end I was so glad to toss this sample and start testing a new moisturizer. I couldn’t find a good balance with this product, I was either not using enough and my face felt dry and tight, or I used too much and I was all slimy. I would say the difference between the two was less than 1/8th of a smidgen. No thank you.
Sources
http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/
Battle of the Moisturizers: Contestant #2 Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare – Hydra-Pure® Oil-Free Moisture with Chelating Complex
Unlike our dearly departed previous contestant, the Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hydra-Pure® Oil-Free Moisture with Chelating Complex (holy crap, long name) was suggested to be by HAL 9000 the Sephora Skincare IQ machine. I have never heard of this brand before and I was immediately skeptical as soon as I saw the price.
But Marina, you said the point was to find a moisturizer that cost LESS than LUSH’s Gorgeous! Why even bother trying this one?
I am really interested in finding something that costs less than $60 an ounce, and I am also looking to find something that could possibly work way better than what I have been using. But most of all, I want to test out the high-end, uber expensive products that make aggrandized claims and see if they really are better than what you can buy at CVS for $5. And THIS GUY is definitely one of those fancy shmancy products I want to run through the gambit. Lets get started –
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare – Hydra-Pure® Oil-Free Moisture with Chelating Complex
Cost = $78 US
Size = 1 fl oz
Extended cost (Cost / Size) = $78/oz
Estimated cost per application = $1.56
I used the same application amount estimate I did with the Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream because the consistency and feel of the two were relatively similar, which means this guy evens out to a whopping $1.56 an application. Holy heart-failure, Batman! I better be impressed. You know there are 514,063 things on Etsy that you can buy for $1.56 or less? A 90’s grunge choker, 1g of organic shea butter, a Kanye West Pin! I actually think i’d rather moisturize my face than have that last one.
So I didn’t really see what about this product constitutes it as “Hydra-Pure?” The first ingredient is water… so there’s that…But thats not really the headline. The big selling point for this guy is it’s “Chelating Complex.” Don’t be dazzled by strange words, kids. Lets talk about Chelation.
What the heck is Chelation?
Pronounced key-LAY-shun, its one way ions or molecules bind to metal ions. Dont worry if you don’t remember from high school chemistry what ions and molecules are, that part doesn’t really matter. What matters is these chelating ions and molecules are kind of like Pac-Man, and they like to chomp down on cherries… or metal ions.
So when Mrs. Pac-Man chomps down on the metal ion, it is rendered chemically inert and will no longer interact with your body. Now, Chelators are SUPER important, and not just for removing those hard-water stains from your shower (no joke, that’s one of the things they’re used for), they’re also key in curing heavy metal intoxication. I’m talking about arsenic, mercury, and lead poisoning. But thats not what we’re talking about with this product – the Chelators here are being used for, among other things (cough-preservatives-cough), neutralizing the “damage” hard water may be doing to your face. We’re talking about the calcium and magnesium that seeps in from old pipes and deposits in the ground that give 85% of homes in the USA what is refered to as “hard water.” Heres a full list of what this product claims to do:
- Softens hard water and removes heavy metals that antioxidants cannot
- Combats free radical damage
- Decreases redness and irritation
- Eradicates dull skin
- Eliminates waxy plugs/blackheads
- Cures the oil chemistry disorder that leads to acne and clogged pores
- Improves penetration of active ingredients
- Allows trace minerals beneficial to the skin to be absorbed
- Dual-mechanism, lightweight moisturizer provides immediate and long-term hydration
You guys know the drill, lets take this one by one –
“Softens hard water and removes heavy metals that antioxidants cannot”- This bit was news to me, I had heard of hard water making your hair gross, and that’s why they make shower heads with water filters in them, but I’d never thought of what it’d do to your skin. I did some googling and came across this article from SELF magazine. Holy cannoli! Its all right here! The acne, how the minerals clog pores, the irritation, everything this moisturizer claims to do! And they’re even getting their info from a real doctor, Dr. Dennis-… Wait a minute. “Dr. Dennis Gross, Manhattan dermatologist and founder of the Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare product line.” But can you blame the guy? Hes just trying to sell his expensive stuff – its the American dream.
I am leaning towards calling bullsh*t on this claim that Chelators can do so many amazing things for your skin. According to Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine “Chelators are used in almost every personal care formulation type to increase effectiveness and improve stability, thereby improving consumer acceptance. In addition, they have demonstrated the ability to boost preservative activity. Chelators are used in liquid soap and body wash to prevent fragrance and color degradation and for their synergistic effect with antimicrobials. They are also incorporated into bar soap to prevent rancidity, softening, brown-spotting, cracking and discoloration due to metal ions, as well as to enhance foaming and rinsability.” Chelators are everywhere, and the ones in this moisturizer aren’t that special. Not to mention, how effective can they be when they’re in a moisturizer? You’ve already washed and dried your face and the oils in your skin are hard at work neutralizing metal ions on their own. Thats right, thats what they’re there for.
(I’ll get off my soapbox now, no pun intended, the rest of this will be quick, I promise)
“Combats free radical damage” – This is what antioxidants do, and this product does have a lot of very effective ones. Free radical damage basically means oxidation (its when a molecule loses an electron and becomes unstable, Antioxidants have electrons to spare and donate them – but that’s a WHOLE ‘nother post). But one of the antioxidants is soy isoflavones – which means don’t use this moisturizer if you’re allergic to soy.
“Decreases redness and irritation” – This Is another claim of Dr. Gross’, (this guy must have been made fun of when he was a kid) said reddness and irritation is allegedly caused by the soap scum on your face. File this under “meh… mabey.”
“Eradicates dull skin” – I’m sure you guys remember our friend Tetrasodium EDTA from the Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream, well guess who is back and is also a chelator? For those of you yet to catch up, Tetrasodium EDTA “reversably” damages the top layers of your skin so whatever its mixed with can absorb better. The internet hates this stuff, but i’m on the fence.
“Eliminates waxy plugs/blackheads” – Oh boy, chelators are soooo fancy! They can also do your taxes and walk your dog!
“Cures the oil chemistry disorder that leads to acne and clogged pores” – “Ugh, chelators, chelators, chelators!”
“Improves penetration of active ingredients” – (cough-Tetrasodium EDTA – Cough)
“Allows trace minerals beneficial to the skin to be absorbed” – Yawn, this guy is just going on about the same ingredients..
“Dual-mechanism, lightweight moisturizer provides immediate and long-term hydration” – I don’t really know what Doc is on about with this one, but I will say that this product has a lot of skin conditioning ingredients. I mean A LOT! At least twice what the Fresh – Rose Hydrating Gel Cream had. Maybe that’s the “long term hydration?” I don’t even know anymore.
In Conclusion…
I know it really sounds like I’m hating on this moisturizer, but the truth is i’m being skeptical because I REALLY want to believe all the things its claiming to do. I think a lot of it make sense theoretically, but I have a hard time accepting a product that claims to do so many things without solid scientific studies to back it up, even if the product is made by a licensed dermatologist. Like my homeboy Justin and homegirl Sydnee say on their podcast Sawbones “Cure-alls cure NOTHING!” (p.s., if you’re not listening to Sawbones, we can’t be friends)
I do have relatively hard water and I didn’t see anything miraculous while using this product, but I believe a 5 day trial-run sample wasn’t enough to see any improvement. I feel like if there are benefits to what Dr. Gross is selling, they’re best seen in the long-run. Unfortunately $78 a bottle is out of the question for long-run use for me. Sorry Doc.
New Contestants!
Ladies and Gentlemen, Dior’s Capture Totale Dreamskin has entered the building! I decided to test this one out after seeing Bunny a.k.a Grav3yardgirl talk about it on her YouTube channel. I love that chick, but I wanna see for myself If I can really get me some dreamskin, and at $115 a bottle I am ready for some serious testing.
We do have another candidate hiding out, but hes a secret that will be revealed in a haul coming very soon, I promise! BE EXCITED!
Sources
How 2: "Girl" 